GOUGUENHEIM, MERLOT - $11.99

Gouguenheim, 2009 Merlot - Valle Escondido - Mendoza, Argentina.  




The movie Sideways changed the world of wine in two ways: the first being the obvious serge in unquestioning, true-blue fans of Pinot Noir. The second was due to a line from the movie that wasn't in the book, but none-the-less when Paul Giamatti scathingly hissed: "I'm not drinking  any fucking Merlot!" the disgust was delivered so persuasively that Merlot became, for most, completely taboo. 


When I ask people what kind of wine they're looking for, eight out of ten times they'll say "a really good, cheap Pinot Noir." I usually explain that "good," and "cheap" (under $10) are two words that don't meld well together when it comes to the favored grape. Sure, there are plenty of drinkable Pinot Noirs around the ten dollar mark, but there are some rather impressive bottles for the same price that aren't Pinot Noir - like certain Merlots, for example. "Oh, I don't like Merlot," I'm often told. When I ask why, or what is it that makes Merlot unlikeable? The most common answer is: "I don't know - I just don't like them."


I agree, sometimes Merlot is truly undrinkable. But, I'll tell you this: an American Pinot Noir at around ten bucks, and an American Merlot for about the same price are like identical shadows of two completely different people. They're both one dimensional, soft and dull, with wishy-washy flavors that leave a funky taste in your mouth. However, if you try a producer from another country, sometimes the difference is staggering.


Gouguenheim Merlot, from Argentina, for $11.99 is one of those wines that will make you change everything you think about Merlot.


Color: A crystal clear ruby shade that veers towards garnet, lilting slightly to the purpler side of the gem, fills the inside of my glass with a distant hint of value; as if a jewel had been melted into a bottle, and then poured with the intension of having its carat weight gaged exclusively from its liquid form.


On the nose: Ripe, dark berries and hints of cola meld together in a swirl of floral scents, wandering like spirits with vaporous abilities to vanish, and then whisper at their presence with a tingle that eludes to the idea of earth and smoke. There's certainly a lot going on in the glass, and from the first moment you pull the bouquet through your senses, past your palate and deep into your lungs, you realize that this is no ordinary "fucking merlot."


The first sip: Your mouth is overwhelmed with the rich and sultry flavors of roasted black cherries, smoldering in a cloud of spicy smoke that crackles with black pepper and steamy distant vapors of black current tea. Dark chocolate hovers in the back and blooms into a cherry blossom note that sustains, as if to anticipate a surprise moment about to happen - and then it does. Creeping slowly across the top of your palate tannins start to sprout, like prickly desert brush growing from all that black pepper heat.  The tannins quickly thrive and begin to coat the roof of your mouth, but keep in mind that this tannin, much like the movie Sideways, is a light, bitter film whose gravely tackiness is only there to provide structure to the main character. Merlot is a soft grape at heart, and it holds its character by showing a range of depth and emotion, eventually letting its silky mouthfeel shine through.


The finish: Soft and vanishing, the wine doesn't so much finish as much as simply fade to black. As the credits roll you're reminded of all of the great scenes still lingering in your memory as you breathe, leaving you grinning at the unexpected, like the sensations of roasted cherries, and that bitter moment that the tannins came to life. Dark chocolate; cedar; coffee; smoke; scorched fruit, all wrapped in a wonderful film that you want again, and again.


Pairing:
There is just about nothing that this wine wont complement. From turkey with stuffing and cranberries, to peanut butter and jelly. Game meats, curries, or ripe soft cheeses; lentil soup, pasta with red sauce or a burger and fries. Chocolate cake, ice cream of any flavor, or simply fresh fruit or nuts.
Usually, I have some pretty specific ideas of what will pair best, but this Gouguenheim Merlot has the fruit, without it being "jammy." It has the acidity, without it being too astringent or bold. It has a big enough round mouth feel that it can stand up to powerful gamy or funky flavors and spice, but it's soft enough that it wont overpower something as delicate as grilled salmon.
Dare I say: Gouguenheim Merlot is one of the better examples of the proverbial little black dress of the wine world. No home should be without a bottle tucked away, just for the hell of it.

THE WOLFTRAP, BLEND - $10

The Wolftrap - 2010, Boekenhoutskloof Franschhoek, Cape of Good Hope, South Africa


People say different things about reading the "legs" of the wine when you swirl your glass. Some say that the definition of the legs will indicate the amount of alcohol, others say it'll offer a preview of the body of the wine. The most common feeling is that smell and taste are the only ways to judge a wine.  I think I'll have to agree with all three. When I swirled my ruby glass of The Wolftrap, what I saw was a sheeting, and then slowly, after a moment, extremely defined legs began to form indicating higher alcohol content (14.5%).  However, I wasn't swirling the wine so I could look at the legs, but rather I was trying to get a better look at the color - while the color density itself seems rather light, upon closer inspection it would almost appear as if there was a shadow looming at the core of the glass. Not an unfiltered cloud, mind you, just a sort of mysterious shadow that's there when you look at it, but then when you try to get a better look, it vanishes.


I suppose that's to be expected. I was looking for an affordable yet interesting bottle, and when I found this Syrah, Mourvedre, Viognier blend, I couldn't help but feel a little excited. Syrah and Mourvedre are commonly blended in Southern Rhone, as Syrah and Viognier are commonly blended in Northern Rhone, but seldom does one see the three blended together. This wine was either going to be a flop, or fantastic - which is always the case when you're on the hunt for something alluring and unusual, at a reasonable price.


On the nose: A gentle note of cascading flower petal aromas swirl like something there, but not there. It was as if the bouquet itself was making tight, invisible laps around the inside of my glass, similar to a dusty pack of horses rounding a track until finally one pulls ahead as the rest fall in behind in order of strength and voracity. At first you can pick up the black cherry, but then when you close your eyes and allow the bouquet to infiltrate your senses you begin to pick up notes of eucalyptus, butter, and spicy hints of cedar. Just when you think that's all there is to it, you'll be able to pick up glimmers of vanilla bean that glisten in short flashes like light dancing on windblown water.


The first sip: Soft and silky on the palate, the mouth feel of the wine is so light that it almost feels like drinking an idea of cassis. A lucid mist of currant rolls around your tongue with a heavy vapor that dissipates into a dryness that holds like a memory, the way a line in the sand is left when waves roll back from the shore. Speckles of black pepper come to life just before the finish and evolve into a tobacco flavor that reminds me of how the inside of a wooden cigar box smells.


The finish: Creamy and light; a lingering spice hangs like a distant neon sign glowing in the dark with a gentle heat that looks hotter than it is. A tobacco after breath hovers dryly as the tannins lightly coat your palate, offering the suggestion of a chocolate covered Bing cherry.


This medium bodied wine is the perfect weight for summer evenings and lighter, hot weather cuisine. The 65% portion of Syrah is ironed out by the 32% of Mourvedre, softening the round edges and buffing them until smooth. 3% of Viognier added is like the shammy that brings out the shine of a balloon filled with helium creating a wonderfully light and flavorful wine that has tannic structure and complex fruit, but yet remains low in acidity.


PAIRING: 
Buttery and creamy sauces are going to be a natural match, along with chilled lobster. But don't be afraid to put this wine beside grilled chicken, pork or lamb chops. Pasta salad with olive oil, ripe tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and a dash of oregano; or even traditional caprese. For dessert, fresh fruit of any kind with a dollop of creme fraiche, or real whipped cream; black forrest cake; creme brulee.